Deep Water Soloing was Baned this year in Mallorca
The island of Mallorca is a vacation destination renown worldwide by the international climbing community for the quality of its natural resources that complement this activity.
The island of Mallorca is a world class location for a specific type
of climbing known as Deep Water Soloing (DWS), or by its spanish name
Psicobloc. During the Summer of 2013, DWS was banned in the
municipality of Manacor, including the beach of Cala Varques, which is
widely known as a world class area for the sport.
Less known internationally and nationally, is the quality of the
Tramuntana mountain range for climbing. Given the problem that has arisen around the private ownership of land where potential climbing areas are located, local climbers have avoided publicising them. In an attempt to circumvent the bans, groups of local climbers have avoided disclosing the locations of sport climbing spots throughout the island. As representatives of the local climbing community we are fully aware of the difficulties implied buy this situation. Despite the secrecy, each year hundreds of climbers from all parts of the world come to enjoy climbing on the Mallorcan coast and mountains.
As local climbers, we cannot understand why we are having to deal with these conditions, and the outlook for the future for climbing in Mallorca is very discouraging.
Following the declaration of the Tramuntana Mountains as a Unesco World
Heritage Site in 2010, we are experiencing a particular malady, which shows as a primary symptom the craving of income . And the "remedy": the imposition
of fees to permit the practice of mountain activities.
This medicine seems to have come solely out of the pockets of a rare and vulnerable group. Climbers.
A group unknown and invisible to the administrative authorities. They do not know us, because we usually move around the more inaccessible
terrain of mountains and coasts (not beaches!) . Always looking for cliffs for from civilization.
We are used to living in the mountains. The frontier, which in this moment in
history represents the last stronghold to feel freedom. The mountain is our refuge. Now, the government on the island of Mallorca wants to start a process by which to make us pay for their greed. They want us to pay for exercising a fundamental human right - access to the mountains. Something that so far has not been imposed anywhere in Europe.
Tell the politicians and bureaucrats of Mallorca that the climbers are
not willing to pay to enjoy the freedom of climbing in our natural environment.
So we say :
We climbers are not prepared to have to apply for a permit to the
local government to climb in Mallorca. Applying for such a permit means that we are included in a census with the aim of assessing the economic potential of charging fees for the right to freely climb in the mountains.
We climbers are not willing to have to pay up to 10 euros per person
per day for climbing in some areas on the island of Mallorca. Fees
that merely entitle us to enjoy climbing areas. Areas that have historically been developed and funded solely by individual actions of climbers.
We climbers oppose the indiscriminate ban and the closure of climbing
areas for environmental reasons, when these closures have not arisen from consented negotiations between the Climbing Federation and the local
We climbers are in favor of regulation of climbing in an agreed manner
to ensure the protection of shared resources between climbers and
wildlife. So as to ensure the protection of animal and plant species
alongside the practice of climbing, using non-speculative
environmental and safety criteria.
We climbers, ask the local government to help private owners of land which has climbing potential, granting them the right to install camping facilities, mountain refuges or shelters. Thus allowing the international climbing community to travel to the island of Mallorca in an orderly manner to enjoy the enormous potential that the island offers to climbers, as is done in other parts of Spain, Europe and the rest of the world. We can simply pay for
services such as overnight camping/hotels and food, like the rest of the people traveling and living in Mallorca.
I have known of Mallorca is an attractive destination for rock climbing and deep water soloing for some years. I had planned to travel to the island to enjoy a vacation including rock climbing and Psicobloc (Deep Water Solo) at many of the well known coastal cliffs and the Tramuntana mountain areas.
When I heard of the recent ban of Psicobloc (Deep Water Solo) and that
I will need to seek governmental permits and/or pay fees in the
best areas of the island, I decided to cancel my vacation plans.
I hope you will be able to resolve this disagreeable situation for the sport of rock climbing.
Hace años que conozco Mallorca como destino atractivo para la practica de la Escalada. Tenia planeado viajar hasta la isla para disfrutar de unas vacaciones en las que practicar Psicobloc en sus acantilados marítimos. Y en la forma de Escalada Deportiva, en las zonas localizadas dentro de la sierra de Tramontana.
Al enterarme de la reciente prohibición de la practica del Psicobloc y de que tendré que solicitar una autorización y pagar por escalar en las mejores zonas de la isla. He decidido cancelar mi plan de vacaciones.
Espero sean capaces de solucionar esta desagradable situación para nuestro deporte.