A cow hospital with a cancer ward and ICU

There are some things best understood in Hindi. 'Lawaris sand' is one of them. Translate it to 'abandoned bulls' and it deprives the animal of its desi, rustic, earthy masculinity. We screech to a halt seeing 'Lawaris sand' written on a large shed on the road to Jodhpur from Deshnoke. Kishtoram, a man in a bright yellow uniform, stands by the wayside selling green cattle feed or Rijga.