View looking down into our 10ft deep pit at the interior of our retaining wall; lead pipe below! (Also the original 1913 galvanized steel pipe; well-rotted.)  Added wood "shoring" and the soil was removed in progressive "steps" to prevent erosion and collapse.  Pit on public side of wall eventually got down to 5-1/2ft.  All dug with shovel & bucket. (OK, not that shovel.)

Slow but continuous progress on our lead water service line project - should have new pipe in the ground soon. 

Not very comforting that temperatures are dropping overnight enough to inspire frost advisories.  We are still taking advantage of a neighbour's garden hose for our water supply, so we may have to "trickle" a faucet overnight to protect against freezing if this keeps up.  City has advised that they are working on a solution for us on the "public" side.

In the "wee-hours",  I continue to write some letters, research what other towns and cities do, and how  different regulatory bodies and trade associations weigh-in on the lead pipe issue.  It is definitely a "rabbit-hole" that gets "curiouser and curiouser", but that will be an update for another day.  I added a health-effects diagram from Clean Water Action to the front petition page, though. 

Meanwhile, let's list some small but important details to consider if you are ever attempting this job yourself or supervising others. These are just reminders of some things to consider - and may not apply or be adequate in every circumstance.  Every site and home is different, so "take it with a grain of salt", consult your local codes, officials and trades.  Details can be time-consuming, but important to address.

1. If your home is like ours, the "sanitary" pipes that run to the sewer leave the basement in the same general location that the "potable" water pipe enters.  So while you have everything excavated, it is a good idea to have your sanitary piping inspected too (and repaired if necessary).  Some municipalities offer sanitary inspection with a camera, or ask your plumber if they can do this.

2. Inspect your exterior walls and patch any damage to make them water-tight again before you back-fill.   (In our case, we also took time to correct some potential "undermining" of a small concrete slab that is close to the new trench.)  Where the pipes penetrate the foundation or slab, a "sleeve" is recommended (particularly for masonry walls) to protect the new water line from damage or corrosion.  A sleeve can be any short piece of larger pipe, but use a compatible material like ABS, PVC, or even a larger diameter copper pipe, with no sharp edges.  Do not use a "dissimilar" metal;  steel touching copper, for example, will set up a chemical reaction that causes corrosion and premature pipe failure.  The exterior of the sleeve can be mortared or caulked in place.  Seal the entry points around the new pipe so that groundwater can not seep into your basement, but use a flexible material so that the pipe can expand and contract a bit.  Silicone is typically not recommended for copper, but electricians' duct-seal putty works, or a rubber "Fernco"-type adapter can be added on the exterior pipe penetration before sliding the new water pipe through the wall.

3. Many older homes used the underground water service pipe as an electrical "ground".  As evidence, there would be a heavy copper cable from the electrical panel clamped to the metal water pipe just inside the house, below the water meter.  For safety, when you remove the old underground pipe, you should restore that ground connection as soon as possible.  If you intend to replace the metal water service pipe with plastic, a different means of grounding should be installed while things have been excavated (such as a dedicated grounding rod or plate).  Even with this in place, if the inside plumbing system is conductive (ie. copper), it should be "bonded" to the electrical ground.  If this all seems confusing or mysterious, definitely consult an electrician.  This is an important detail that could save a life someday.

4. Maybe obvious, but your new water service line has to be installed below the "frost-line" to prevent freezing.  Do not assume that the old line was deep enough. That depth will vary depending on your location.  The pipe should be surrounded by uniform material, not just laid out on rock/soil and covered with sand for example.  In our case, we will lay a bed of sand in the trench before the pipe is installed, and cover it with an equal thickness (~6"), followed by at least 3-1/2 ft of fill and topsoil.  The reason is not just to prevent mechanical damage from rocks when things get compacted, but also to prevent a chemical reaction between the different soil types and the pipe (if it is copper) that could lead to corrosion.  If you hit bedrock before getting to the required depth, the pipe can be protected with a layer of insulating foam board (SM) above the sand bedding, but consult the building code or your building inspector or plumber if unsure.

Never done a petition before.  Wow.  Over 120 signatures at time of writing, so THANKS to everyone to has signed and commented so far.

Note: This is not just a Brockville problem.  If you live in an older home, you should call your city hall to find out if you have a lead water service pipe. 

My purpose is to raise awareness of the issue, and maybe inspire various levels of bureaucracy to take notice, and action.