As rewilding has taken off in the UK, so have species reintroductions: from beavers to bison, charismatic animals are being brought back to restore their native ecosystems, and visitors from all over the country have flocked to see them populate Britain’s countryside once more. In our seas, meanwhile, one of the UK’s most exciting, rare species has returned all by themselves. But instead of being cherished and carefully protected like other magnificent creatures back from the brink, they are being hunted commercially to supply high-end restaurants with luxury meat.

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