TEACH TEXTURE EDUCATION: Inclusive Cosmetology Requirements/Save NYS Natural Hair License

TEACH TEXTURE EDUCATION: Inclusive Cosmetology Requirements/Save NYS Natural Hair License

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Diane Da Costa started this petition to New York State Board of Cosmetology Board Member / Hair Stylist Leeanne Shade and

While the Crown Act prohibits bias discrimination against natural hair textures and styles has passed as law in several states and passed in the US House of Representatives on March 18, 2022, there is limited or no Texture education in cosmetology schools and the state board examination as it pertains to curly, coily, braiding, locking and natural hair styles. Unfortunately, that means all new stylist are not being taught haircare and scalp care, cutting, and coloring on textured hair: curly, coily and Afro coily hair textures in traditional cosmetology schools.

Recently, there is an attempt to deregulate the NY Natural Hairstyling License and eliminate it from the division of licensing. This is the only formal and professional education license in New York State for Natural Hair Styling, which includes haircare, scalp care,  hairstyling on all types and textures, including but not limited to curly and coily free flowing hairstyles, braiding, locking with/without extensions, twist/coil styles, and weaving!

NYS Assemble Bill AB9008/A4606 and NYS Senate Bill B5114 will eliminate the Natural Hair Styling License as first reported by Professional Beauty Association in January 2022.

In the last two to three decades the natural hair movement has evolved into a natural curly and textured revolution. During this time cosmetologists and natural hair stylists have continued to evolve and create curly and textured styles for a diverse range of hair types and textures. We've experienced natural hair styles increasing grow while black own stylist and salons service their consumers. Since the early 2000's we've seen more curly styles and curl specific salons arrive, and an increase presence of textured styles all over beauty editorials, commercials, television shows, runways and textbooks. If you have't noticed TEXTURE and natural haircare is everywhere, it's an 8 billion dollar industry.

Today, wavy, curly and, coily hair textures; braids, locks and extension hairstyles for women and men of all nationalities are featured on all media platforms that reach the mainstream beauty market and every major haircare beauty brand. What was once thought of as just a trend is now regarded as a true lifestyle. While major beauty companies like L’Oreal Brands; Matrix, Mizani and Redkin have provided online texture education, and beauty academies like, Aveda Arts & Science Institute, and Paul Mitchell Schools have adapted inclusive texture cutting and styling techniques to their curriculum, most beauty programs in New York State and across the United States have failed to require texture education on the state board level. 

Now is the time to include:

  • Include education of the diverse range of hair textures;  natural haircare, natural hair styling, all texture types; foundational texture cutting, coloring and styling methods and techniques for all natural textured hair into beauty school curriculums.
  • Incorporate questions pertaining to natural haircare, and textured styling for all types and textures on the state board examination for cosmetology requirements.
  • Advocate to stop deregulation of the NYS Natural Hair Styling Licensing!


Curly and textured subject matter has been written into some cosmetology textbooks, however the next generation of cosmetologists, still today have not been taught or trained in textured education. Why? Because it isn't taught in most classrooms. Additionally, there hasn't been any inclusive updates to the New York State Board of Cosmetology examinations for decades. 

There must be change to ensure that new and future cosmetologists entering the profession receive:

  • A basic standard education of textured haircare and natural haircare and styling.
  • Include the foundation of hair history from all origins, and include African American contributions to the hair and beauty industry.
  • Students should graduate with a standard working knowledge of curly and textured cutting, coloring and styling techniques.
  • All new stylist entering the workforce should be prepared to provide general services for all types and textures.

We all can make the change! Let's start texture inclusive programs for all beauty schools here today!

Please sign the petition that will be presented to the New York State Board of Cosmetology and New York State Office of the Professions - State Education Department and NYS Legislators to begin the process for inclusive standard education of curly and textured styling techniques; training taught for beauty school certification and the New York State Cosmetology License.


As a Subject Matter Expert for Cengage, Milady Publishing on several projects, education has always been a top priority for me in the beauty industry. I have been working closely with Milady over the past six years to update and include curly and textured history and styling techniques to the Milady Standard Cosmetology Textbooks, and MiladyPro video content. In 2004 I introduced textured styling to the general beauty market with my first book, Textured Tresses, published on Simon & Schuster.


As of November 2021, Louisiana became the first state to require textured cutting - textured education to be taught in cosmetology schools and required to receive a cosmetology license. The law is implemented in June 2022.

NYS Natural Hair Styling License

In 1993/1994 session NYS Department of State, Division of Licensing passed into law the first Natural Hair Styling License with 900 hours as part of the cosmetology course. The Natural Hair Styling license has since been revised, and includes a separate license obtained with 300 hours of course curriculum pertaining to natural styling, braids, weaves and twisting. However, to date, natural hair styling, curly or textured services is not taught in most beauty school curriculum. To date, The New York State Board of Cosmetology has been slow to update the subject matter for students to receive a general working knowledge of curly and textured education on theory or practical examinations that reflects today's general beauty market.

FACTS: Several books have been published by veteran cosmetologists and introduced to the general market since the early 1990's. These books specifically address wavy, curly, coily and tightly coiled hair textures; Diane Bailey, Natural Hair Care and Braiding, (1991), Andrea Walker, Andrea Talk's Hair, (1997), Quidad, Curl Talk, (2002), Lorraine Massey, Curly Girl, The HandBook, 2002, Anthony Dickie, Hair Rules, (2003) and Diane Da Costa, Textured Tresses, (2004).

  • Since the early 1990s to 2000s women with waves, curls, and multi-textured hair began wearing their natural ringlet curls without blowouts and/or straighteners and by 2010, Sixty-five 65% percent of women have worn their hair in it's natural curly texture. (Source: naturallycurly.com)
  • By 2018 Fifty-one percent of African American women state that they feel more beautiful when they are wearing a natural hairstyle.
  • African-Americans spend $1.2 trillion each year, and that number is projected to rise to $1.5 trillion by 2021.
  • In 2018 the Black hair care industry raked in an estimated $2.51 billion, as Black consumers have progressively made the switch from general products to those that specifically cater to them. (Source: Mintel).
  • In 2019 The CROWN Act and New York City Human Rights Law were passed into law in California and New York. The law prohibits race-based hair discrimination, which is the denial of employment and educational opportunities because of hair texture or protective hairstyles including braids, locs, twists or bantu knots. March 18, 2022, US House of Representatives passed the Crown Act, prohibiting discrimination of hair textures and styles.
  • In 2019 Models of Color Matter conducted a survey of models of color across all 4 major Fashion Weeks about their experience in the industry. 66% of the models interviewed had experienced poor treatment of their textured hair backstage and on set.

Today, more than ever as the industry calls for more diversity and representation by brands we need to not only give textured models a seat at the table, but the tools to succeed and look their best there. It is evident that we need textured hair education taught in cosmetology schools to make a change.

Thanks for your time. Please sign the petition!

0 have signed. Let’s get to 2,500!
At 2,500 signatures, this petition is more likely to get picked up by local news!